Dr. Elena Voss
Senior Ingredient Analyst
Cosmetic science researcher with a background in pharmaceutical chemistry. Specialises in INCI decoding, ingredient safety assessment, and EU regulatory compliance. Reviews every product score for accuracy before publication.
Areas of expertise
Articles by Dr. Elena Voss (18)
-
Paula's Choice vs SkinCeuticals: ingredient-led brands compared 2026
Independent Paula's Choice vs SkinCeuticals comparison: pricing, actives, BHA vs CE Ferulic, evidence and clear picks, with peer-reviewed sources.
-
Cetaphil vs Avene: which sensitive skin classic actually wins in 2026
Independent Cetaphil vs Avene comparison for sensitive skin: cleansers, moisturizers, thermal spring water, price and evidence, with clear picks by concern.
-
Peptide categories: signal, carrier, enzyme, neuro
The four peptide families in skincare decoded: signal, carrier, neurotransmitter and enzyme-inhibiting, with the evidence behind Matrixyl and copper peptides.
-
Hyaluronic acid molecular weight: HMW vs LMW vs oligo
HMW vs LMW vs oligo hyaluronic acid: HMW sits on top to hold water, LMW slips deeper to plump, oligo stays near the surface. Evidence based guide.
-
Vitamin C: L-ascorbic acid vs derivatives, which actually works in 2026
L-ascorbic acid is the gold standard, but SAP, MAP, THD ascorbate and ethyl ascorbic acid all have their place. Evidence-based vitamin C comparison.
-
Niacinamide overhyped? The truth dermatologists rarely tell you
Niacinamide is everywhere, but is it as life changing as the marketing says? Evidence-based review of what it does, at what dose, and when it disappoints.
-
How to Read an INCI List: Decode Skincare in 5 Minutes
Learn how to read an INCI list fast: the descending-order rule, the 1% line, hero actives and the marketing tricks the ingredient list quietly hides.
-
Are parabens safe? What the science actually says
Parabens, preservatives, endocrine disruptors, the 2004 Darbre study, FDA and EU rulings, the short chain vs long chain split, and what to use instead.
-
Silicones in skincare: are they safe? The dimethicone debate
What silicones actually do in skincare, whether dimethicone is safe, the pore-clogging myth, the D4/D5 environmental rules, and how to read a label.
-
Azelaic Acid: The Most Underrated Ingredient for Acne and Rosacea
Azelaic acid quietly outperforms most actives for acne, rosacea and dark spots. A guide to concentrations, products and what the evidence really shows.
-
Ceramides explained: why your skin barrier needs them
What ceramides actually do, the nine types in skincare, why the 3:1:1 ratio matters, and how to choose a barrier cream that works, with evidence.
-
Sérums hyperpigmentation : meilleurs anti-taches 2026
A dermato-cosmetic guide to the best serums for hyperpigmentation and dark spots. Which actives fade pigment, how to layer them, and what the evidence says.
-
Sérum Vitamine C : Formes, concentrations et efficacité
A dermato-cosmetic guide to vitamin C serums: which form to choose (L-ascorbic acid vs derivatives), ideal concentration, pH, and how to layer in your routine.
-
Salicylic acid vs benzoyl peroxide: which is better for acne?
Salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide? A dermato-cosmetic breakdown of how each ingredient works, which acne type it suits, and how to combine them safely.
-
Fragrance in Skincare: The Hidden Allergen in 60% of Products
Fragrance is the most common allergen in skincare. Which ingredients to avoid, how EU and US rules differ, and the best fragrance-free picks by category.
-
Comedogenic Ingredients: The Complete 2026 List With Ratings
Top 25 comedogenic ingredients ranked on the Fulton scale, plus the ingredients wrongly feared (mineral oil, dimethicone) and the INCI position rule.
-
Retinol for beginners: how to start without wrecking your skin
A science-backed guide to retinol. Which strength to pick, how to apply it, what to avoid, and why most people fail in the first month.
-
Is niacinamide safe? What dermatology research actually says
Clinical evidence on niacinamide safety: 18 RCTs reviewed, adverse event rates, contraindications, pregnancy data, and concentration response curves.
Dr. Elena Voss is part of the SkinScore editorial team. All scores and analyses are reviewed by at least two team members before publication. Our methodology is fully transparent and based on EU CosIng data, SCCS opinions, and peer-reviewed dermatological research.
See our methodology →